
It’s 4:00 a.m., and outside the fog-shrouded windows of the kashmir Alpine Ski Shop, the Indian village of Gulmarg sleeps in the shadow of a 13,576-foot ridge that looks directly into Pakistan.

In addition to presenting a rather grotesque perversion of pretty much everything that alpinism is supposed to represent, Everest Base Camp, an experimental theater for the sort of behavior that any self-respecting mountaineer finds repugnant, also happens to be, and I’m afraid there’s just no other way to put this, an absolute fricking blast.

If you ever find yourself skimming through the troposphere high above the Horn of Africa, the engines of your cargo jet clawing at the currents of sub-Saharan air rolling off the lip of the Ethiopian plateau and down toward the Red Sea, there will come a moment when you’ll have to admit that the cockpit of an aging DC-8 offers a damn fine view of the most wretched place on the planet.

High in the Karakoram, the stubborn armies of India and Pakistan have faced off for 19 years on the Siachen Glacier, the world’s highest battleground and perhaps it’s most futile conflict.